Transnistria

As a non-Moldovan and non-Ukrainian citizen, you can get into Transnistria via bus, train or car from Moldova namely Chişinău or Ukraine.

If you enter Transnistria from the Ukrainian side and then enter Moldova, you will not get a Moldovan entry stamp. Then when you leave Moldova, the Moldovan border guards may claim that you have entered Moldova illegally. Exiting Moldova while you have a valid entry stamp through Transnistria to Ukraine and then returning through one of the normal border crossings e.g. Palanca doesn't give problems with the border guards. If you do get into Moldova through Transnistria from Ukraine you have to register with the Ministry of Information, Technologies and Communication, located in Chisinau at 49 M. Kogalniceanu str, within 3 days 72 hours on arriving to get a Moldovan entry stamp.

Update 2011: According to locals and personal experience, the missing entry stamp is not an issue. Also the Ministry of Information told me likewise. You will have an Ukrainian exit stamp, so your path of travel will be obvious.

When crossing the border between Moldova and Transnistria, you will be checked only by Transnistrian officials. There are also peacekeeping Russian and Ukranian soldiers who may stop and search vehicles.

For stays up to three days, there is no official fee for entering Transnistria, apart from a $5 road tax when entering by car. Any minor misconduct may be used to try and milk some foreign currency out of you. You may also be asked to declare any foreign money you are bringing in. Be sure to get a copy of the customs declaration if this happens. You will also be given a "talon" small sheet of paper with your entry date. You need this piece of paper to get out of Transnistria again.

If you are holding a passport from a non-CIS state, you may be delayed at the border and asked to pay a bribe. The Transnistrian government does not condone this, but in practice some individual border guards are known for targeting non-CIS passport holders in an attempt to extract bribes. Other border guards are courteous and professional. The situation can vary considerably based on where you are crossing, and whom you are dealing with. Certain crossings Dubasari are known for being easier to cross for non-CIS nationals than others Bendery. The best course of action is to have a back up plan, and to be flexible. If you don't get in at one crossing, try another crossing, or the same crossing another day. Your situation depends entirely on what guards are working the border at the time you cross, and often what kind of mood they are in. If you don't speak Russian, it may help to enlist an ally on the marshrutka who can.

Tourists are more likely to be asked for bribes when leaving Transnistria. Once you are in, you are "theirs"! British tourists travelling from Chişinău to Odessa in May 2010 reported no problems getting into Transnistria, but were asked for a "little present" when crossing into Ukraine later the same day. They had to pay $2 or have their passports destroyed. It is possible to get away with paying very little if you act clueless and innocent. It is possible to get away without paying anything if you are not carrying hard currency. Hide your US Dollars and Euros carefully. This means using your initiative. For example, take some playing cards from the centre of a deck and fill the space with notes. Also try your socks and secret places in your bag. Keep your Moldovan Lei and Ukrainian Hryvnia in your pocket. The border guards don't want them.Update 2011: In most cases, you will not run into any trouble at the border, entry and exit. Please do not offer bribes unless there is absolutely no other way. Your fellow travellers will appreciate it!

If you speak one of the official languages of Transnistria especially Russian, you will have a much easier time at the border as a foreign national. Most marshrutkas minibuses heading into Transnistria have blank entry forms; fill one of these in ahead of time they are printed in Russian or English to save time at the border. If you are travelling by bus from Chişinău make sure to identify yourselves with the bus driver/conductor, as they will normally help you through the border it is in their interest as they want to keep your bus moving as fast as possible.

If you are turned away at the border, there are many buses and marshrutkas that will take you back into Moldova or Ukraine, and these can be hailed on the non-Transnistrian side of the border after they have passed through both borders. You will be expected to pay cash, and the cost can vary. Taxis also can often be found at the border. From the Bendery crossing to Chisinau, a taxi costs 100 to 150 Moldovan Lei. A marshrutka costs around 25 lei.

Complaints are possible at (http://customs.tiraspol.net/), but you have to go to the Russian version click on Горячая линия. You can also send a complaint to [email protected] Transnistrian Customs. The complaint should be in Russian. Use the google translator, if you don't know anybody who speaks Russian. Future travellers will be grateful for your complaint! There is also a complaint hotline: +373 533 9-45-78 or 9-25-68. Try to memorise the number of the officer before he asks you for a bribe. Even the nicest officer can be corrupt! If you complain you should also state the time, the date and the name of the border crossing. You should also give your phone number. There is an English speaking officer responsible for complaints. You can reach him under +373 777 71508 or [email protected].

It is no longer necessary to register with the police for stays under 24 hours: this is now done at the border. If you are staying longer, be sure the hotel or person you are staying with registers you.

By plane
By plane

Transnistria does not have its own international passenger airport it has a military or freight airport, so the best way is to fly to Chisinau in Moldova and travel from there. It is also possible to access from Odessa in Ukraine via bus.

By train
By train

The only major railway stations are Tiraspol and Bendery. There are trains between Odessa, Transnistria and Chişinău as of July 2012.As of July 2012, there is train connection between Chişinău and Moscow, stopping at Tiraspol and Kiev Leaves Chisinau 22h30, stop at Tiraspol around 01h30 and arrive in Kiev 12h30. Check Poezda CIS Railway Timetable for up-to-date, English language timetables.

By car
By car

Cars can enter but expect delays of up to an hour at border crossings in busy times. Note that foreign nationals driving their own vehicles are prime targets for border guards trying to extract bribes. According to the offical hotline of Transnistrian customs there is an official road tax $5. Ask for a receipt!

Note that not all border crossing points are allowed/able/willing to process foreign cars in customs. They may tell you to cross the border at a bigger crossing point.